Introduction

Generally speaking, miniatures wargaming is the recreation of historical or hypothetical battles through the use of a 3D terrain table over which are deployed model forests, roads, rivers and buildings as well as miniature soldiers and vehicles depicting the actual participants of the engagement.

Detailed rules instruct the players on how they may move and launch their miniature forces in combat against each other, sometimes drawing on extensive research as to what happened historically and why. The rules, and also the reference charts that accompany them, regulate such things as combat formations, movement, command-control (C2), morale and firepower. Dice, from 6 sided to 20 sided, are used to insert the uncertainty that has always been present in war into the game, and thus into the minds of the players as well. Thus while such things as morale and training might dictate that a unit of 1813 Prussian Landwehr (militia) might have only a 5% chance of victory when attacking a battalion of Napoleon’s Old Guard Grenadiers, it can happen, though not very often.

The miniature soldiers or vehicles are sometimes mounted on trays for ease of movement. In Skirmish games, figures will be individually mounted. Officers and commanders are almost always individually mounted. These bases are often decorated with model turf or grass and are cut to an exact scale frontage representing the precise space the forces depicted would occupy historically. The trays themselves can then be aligned to represent specific historical battle formations and units. Thus the trays could be formed together to recreate the basic historical unit represented in the rules being played, such as a battalion of infantry.

The trays could then be deployed to represent the different combat formations a battalion could take, such as column, line or square. If done properly in conjunction with a well designed terrain table, these soldiers present an historically accurate and colorful spectacle unsurpassed by even the most modern computer wargames.

The Basics: Cost, Scale and Other Small Details

Miniature wargaming is a fairly expensive hobby, both in terms of time and expense. Currently, a package of 2 25 mm infantry figures will cost about $7.50 US, with rules weighing in at anywhere from $20 - $50 US. Figures can be significantly less expensive if bought in larger, packaged quantities, with up to 100 15 mm costing less than $25 US. Then one must buy such things as paint, material for terrain, paint brushes and research publications so that a miniature army might be deployed in its proper uniform. Obviously, once all this material has been gathered, then one must find the time to paint and produce the armies, not to mention the need to develop scenarios and build appropriate terrain boards.

It is for this reason, as well as a few others, that miniature wargaming enthusiasts tend to be a little older than folks in other wings of the hobby. They are individuals a little further along in their careers, thus having a little more money and time to devote to the hobby. These same gamers are also likely to be a little more extroverted than most. This fact, coupled with the realization that miniature battles tend to simply require more material and space than their cardboard or computer cousins, means that miniature wargames tend to be multiple player, social affairs. By contrast, cardboard and computer wargames tend to be played solitaire most of the time.

In another difference from the paper and microchip set, miniature gamers tend to specialize to a much higher degree. Again, this is basically a matter of economics as the money, materials and time needed to produce a typical miniature wargames army is simply too great to allow the typical gamer to involve himself in more than one or two historical periods. This, however, also means that miniature players tend to know their chosen period of history to a much greater level of detail than a typical paper or microchip gamer. There are, of course, exceptions, but generally the rule rings true.

There are several scales (sizes) commonly in use. The smallest available scale is 2mm, where a human figure is 2mm tall. The smallest popular scale is 6mm (also known as MicroArmor or Epic scale, or Z scale in model railroad circles). The 6mm scale is useful for creating action at the battalion level or higher. GHQ's WWII microarmor, Steve Jackson's OGRE/GEV and Games Workshop's Epic 40K are all in this scale.

10mm is increasing in popularity, it is roughly equivalent to N scale model railroading. Games Workshop's Warmaster and Battle of Five Armies games are in this scale.

15mm remains the most popular scale for historical miniatures. The Napoleonic Wars, the American Civil War and WWII remain the most popular periods for historical gaming. 15mm figures are generally compatible with HO model railroading scenery.

25mm is an extremely popular scale, especially for fantasy/science fiction skirmish games like Warhammer, Warmachine, Warhammer 40K, etc. Most '25mm' figures produced in the United States and Great Britian are actually 'stretch 25's' or 28mm figures but the scale is still called 25mm. True 25mm is 1/72nd scale while the stretch 25's are closer to 1/64th.

History and Miniatures

Something almost all wargamers share in common is an almost unbreakable link with traditional methods of historical study.

Miniature wargaming is definitely not a lazy person’s hobby, and one of the reasons is the necessity of doing one’s own historical research in order to participate. Traditionally, miniature wargaming rules have included only the most basic battle scenarios ready for play. To go beyond such generic engagements, the players had to do their own research as concerned terrain, the order of battle (called OB in US military circles) and the arrival of reinforcements.

Then there are the uniforms. Miniature rules simply do not tell players how to paint their figures. Research is an absolute necessity, and like figuring out battle scenarios, can easily lead off into areas of traditional historical study. Ever wonder why Napoleonic French cavalry trumpeters wore such distinctive uniforms and rode only light grey or white horses? Take a look at French dragoons, for example. Mounted on bays or browns, with brass helmets with black, flowing horsehair manes, dark green saddle blankets trimmed white and dark green coats with lapels, collar and cuffs in a distinctive regimental color, yellow perhaps. Now look at the trumpeter ­ white horsehair main, yellow saddle blanket, yellow coat with green collar and so on, all on a white horse. The bottom line here is that the trumpeter was the commander’s communication corps. He could not only blow a jaunty tune to raise the spirits of the lads, but he was also responsible for getting the word out as regarded battlefield movement instructions. Here we are talking about trumpet calls such as retreat, charge or recall. With all the black powder weapons going off, it was imperative that this important fellow be very distinctively accoutered so that the commander might easily pick him out of a swirling mass of men when the need arose. Interestingly enough, British cavalry, which Lord Wellington swore was among the most uncontrollable in Europe, did not dress their musicians any differently than the rank and file.

Could this lead to yet another book for the player to read? Perhaps, and so it goes as the link between miniatures and traditional history grows stronger still.

Getting Started

So how does one get started? Since miniatures are normally played in group settings, it is usually wise to contact a group to see what they are playing. Visit your Friendly Local Game Store (FLGS), there is likely a notice board from local clubs looking to recruit new members. Many stores sponsor leagues and game nights as well.

Next step is to simply pick up the phone and find out what period is being played, under what rules, in what scale and when the next meeting is going to happen. Show up, try your hand and then depart to pick up your own wargaming army. Try to build a complete unit, but one that is not too big.

But above all, try to get your army started as soon as possible. Most folks have no problem sharing their figures for play with newcomers, but this tolerance goes only so far. The quicker you can supply painted figures to the collective pool of miniatures needed to play a battle, the quicker you will be accepted into the group.

After that, settle down and have fun.

Conclusion

This article is by no means all inclusive, but I hope it will spark your interest. If it does and you feel up to the challenge, but you still have questions, just contact the friendly folks at your nearby FLGS and let them help you out. Believe me, you will be glad you did.

Best of luck and good gaming!